Brake Pad Bedding-in:
For optimal use of any given brake system, the pads and rotor have to be compatible with each other. The bed-in procedure establishes that compatibility between the pad and rotor. This is achieved by a combination of rubbing speed, temperature, line pressure, and Inertia. Bed-in is also influenced by pad and rotor material chemistries. It is always recommended that only compatible pads and rotors be used in any given application.
Bedding in advantages:
1. Gradually heat treats the rotor and eliminates any thermal shock in the rotor.
2. Burn off volatiles and moisture from the resin that is near pad surface.
This will eliminate “green fade.”
3. Establish a layer of transfer film about a few microns thick on the rotor surface. Shearing of the film during friction is an effective source of friction force. Otherwise, when using a freshly ground rotor without the transfer film, the main friction force would come from cutting, plowing, or scoring the asperities on the rotor surface. This leads to inconsistent braking effectiveness.
4. Mate the two surfaces to a near perfect geometrical match, so that the contact area is high, and therefore the friction force is increased.
5. The performance of a fresh rotor/fresh pad system would be inconsistent. This is due to ever-changing structures and properties of the two mating materials. Bed-in of pads and rotor will form a stable transfer film.
6. If bedding in procedure is not applied, a stable transfer film may not be established for a long time. In other words, the rotor surface would have to be constantly regenerating a film that is not quite stable for a long time. This effect would reduce the performance and increase the wear.

Hawk Brake Pad Installation Procedure
Step 1:
Install Brake pads properly. Be sure pads are securely positioned in the caliper.
Step 2:
Flush system with fresh brake fluid.
Step 3:
Check all hydraulic parts for excess wear and tear.
Step 4:
Check disc for proper thickness, parallelism, and lateral run-out.
Step 5:
Check disc for scoring or grooves over .012" depth. If either applies, resurfacing or replacement is required.
Step 6:
If disc does not need resurfacing then contamination from the previous brake pads must be removed. Sand discs with Garnet sandpaper using moderate pressure. Use soap and water to clean off disc surface after sanding and machining. Discs should be free and clear of oil, grease, and brake fluid.
Step 7:
Inspect calipers for freedom of movement. Lubricate where necessary.

Hawk Brake Bedding-in Procedure
Step 1:
Make 6-10 slow-downs from approximately 30-35 mph to 5 mph. applying moderate pressure. Do not come to a complete stop.
Step 2:
Make an additional 2 to 3 harder stops from approximately 40-45 mph. to zero.
Step 3:
DO NOT DRAG THE BRAKES!  (after stopping - do not leave your foot on the brake pedal)
Step 4:
Allow 15 mintues or more for the brake system to cool down.
Step 5:
Your new Hawk pads are ready for use.

Ferodo Brake Bedding-in Procedure 
To achieve optimum performance from Ferodo Racing brake pads please follow the instructions below:
1) Perform 25 to 30 trial brake applications, each of approximately 4 seconds, using around 50% of normal race pedal pressure. To shorten the procedure applications can be made along the straights as well as through bends.
2) On completion of trial applications return to the pit lane. Inspect the surface of the brake pads from the two wheels which have been working the hardest. There should be evidence of contact over the full pad area but without glazing. The pads are now ready to race.

Whilst we recommend that pads are inspected, if time does not allow this, assuming procedure (1) has been carried out and a short period of time has elapsed to allow the brake system to cool, the pads will be ready to race.
Important: to optimize the performance and life of both brake pads and discs, during the bedding-in period heat in the braking system should be built up progressively.
Pad wear inspection: brake pads must have at least 2mm of friction material. Excessively worn brake pads must be replaced.
Thermal paint temperature control. Using this procedure, if none of the 3 paints has changed appearance and the braking performance is not considered satisfactory, it may be necessary to reduce cooling to the discs. If all 3 paints have changed appearance, it may be necessary to increase cooling to the discs.

Rofren Brake Pad Bedding-in Procedure
Step 1:
Decelerate from 35mph to 5mph - using moderate brake presure (70-75%)
Do not come to a complete stop.  Gently re-accelerate to 40mph.
Repeat this process 4-6 times.

Step 2:
Decelerate from 45mph to 0mph - using more brake pressure (85%)
Do not lock the brakes.  Do not STAY stopped with your foot on the brake pedal - allow the car to roll slightly.  Gently re-accelerate to 45mph.
Repeat this process 3 times.

Step 3:
Drive a short distance - allowing the brakes to cool.
Park the vehicle, and allow the brake system to fully cool to ambient (outside) temperatures (15-30 minutes).  While stopped, do not apply the parking brake or keep your foot on the brake pedal for extended periods of time.
Your new Rofren pads are now ready for use.

SP Performance Rotor Installation Guide 
Download SP Performance rotor installation guide here (PDF)

NOTE: SP Performance Rotors are direct-replacement parts. 
They are the same size as the FACTORY ORIGINAL parts.

If you are looking for rotors that are different diameters, thicknesses,
bolt-patterns, etc. than the ORIGINAL part for the car....
We recommend that YOU determine what vehicle (year, make, model)
has the rotor size that you are looking for. 
Otherwise, you may want to take advantage of our Consulting Service.

Our Telephone Support/Technical Assistance Policy:
Let us be very clear about this -  
If you're planning on calling us to ask questions like :

- How does your product compare to XYZ product that you don't sell?
  Why is your product better than XYZ product?
  We don't answer questions relating our products to those which we
  haven't used ourselves or don't sell.  
  We have more technical information regarding the products we sell on our
  website than almost any other manufacturer or distributor.
  Please read it - then you'll know.
  If not, we recommend calling the other company or vendor and asking 
  them the same question.

- My mechanic screwed up my brake installation ...
  Can you tell my mechanic that they didn't install my brakes correctly -
  this way they'll figure you're an expert and fix it for free?
  We're not getting in the middle between you and your installer.

- How long (many miles) is this product going to last on my car?
  The short answer is: If you don't drive the vehicle - they'll last forever.
  Otherwise, brake component life expectancy is dependent upon:
  How you drive, What you drive, and the Conditions under which you drive your 
  vehicle.  Brakes are supposed to wear out! 
  All of the components we sell should last as long, if not longer, than any 
  normal stock component - and perform better during their life expectancy.
  In many cases- our customers report anywhere from 150% to 300%+ greater 
  mileage than from stock components.

 - I bought one of the products you sell from another vendor-
   and now I have a problem.  Can you help me fix it?
  We recommend contacting the vendor or manufacturer you purchased the parts
  from for assistance.  Unfortunately, our business model does not consist of
  providing free technical support for other vendors or for individuals
  who sell stuff on E Bay and that you can no longer get in touch with.....
  If you purchased the product from US - and have a problem-
  please give us a call.
  Have your Name and/or Order Number handy when you call -
  and we'll do what we can to help you solve the problem.

If you were planning on calling and asking one of the previous questions -
WE CAN STILL HELP! - Click Here
Otherwise, we recommend that you continue reading.....
Our advice, and the answers to 99% of your questions are available
for reading below:

How can I Improve my vehicles braking performance?
Brake performance will be positively impacted by improvements in the following areas:
#1) Better Tires
#2) Better Brake Pads
#3) Larger Diameter Rotors (more brake torque)
Assuming that you have good tires on your vehicle- the simplest, and most cost effective improvement comes from BETTER BRAKE PADS.

What brake pads are the best?  (Our Number #1 Asked Question)
The answer here is subjective.  Only you know what you want out of your braking system.  Some want more performance- some want less dust, etc...  Every manufacturer that we carry is a 'class of the field' performance brake pad manufacturer.  If there was ONE pad or ONE compound that was better than any other- then we wouldn't have all of these different manufacturers - would we?
In general, we always recommend using a high-quality, semi-metallic pad.
Semi-metallic pads offer premium stopping power and fade resistance.  Many of the semi-metallic or hybrid pad compositions also offer very low dust and are noise free.
Lastly, I can tell you this:  BRAKING IS A TRADE-OFF 
You cannot have better braking perormance with less dust and/or less rotor wear.  If you want better stopping power- then that comes with the price of potentially more brake dust and more accelerated rotor wear.  If you give up a degree of performance- then you can have less dust and less rotor wear.
You cannot have your cake and eat it too!
Well -actually - you can - but we don't sell them - the product you need can be found HERE.

Why don't you recommend Ceramic Brake Pads?
Let's start by saying that ceramic brake pads have a place in the automotive industry.  They were designed to be a low-dust, noise-free brake pad.  They came into popularity after the discontinued use of asbestos-based brake pads.  At that time, semi-metallic pads exhibited problems with higher noise and dust levels.
That being said, I can tell you that Ceramic Brake Pads were NEVER designed to be a performance brake pad!  Some companies have done a terrific job marketing their higher-priced, ceramic pads to the consumer as a performance pad.  Ceramic brake pads typically have lower friction coefficients, and act as an insulator - raising rotor temperatures in cast-iron disc systems.   When you have a vehicle that has persistent braking problems- the last thing you want to do is install components that have a LOWER friction coefficient and that RAISE effective operating temperatures!   See our section on how this can cause ' Warped Rotors "
Premium-grade semi-metallic or hybrid pads are more effective for handling elevated temperatures and dissipating heat away from rotors.  Most, if not all, semi-metallic pads have a degree of ceramic content ALREADY IN the brake pad.   
Premium-grade, semi-metallic pads can offer LOW-DUST, NOISE-FREE Performance  without sacrificing stopping power and increasing rotor temperatures! 
Most organizations with fleet vehicles and other extreme-service applications already know what we're telling you:  High-quality semi-metallic pads offer the best combination of stopping-power and extended-wear of any brake pad type on the marketplace today!

Why do I need better pads if I can already lock up my tires?
Ok, we'll assume you read the first part about tires.....
Remember, braking performance is about NOT locking up your tires.
Your objective is to slow the vehicle in the shortest distance possible.
[ Example: You ~could~ use a street tire on a race track, but it won't provide very good handling or lap times.... In the same regard - an inferior or lower friction pad will still stop your car - it just won't do it in as short of a distance! ]
Given this objective and other factors (tires, etc.) being equal:
Higher friction brake pads provide greater fade resistance and shorter stopping distances.

Should I use the same components as specified as OEM?
OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer.
Translation: A component manufactured by a third-party company and selected for use in the original vehicle.  An OEM manufacturer will typically manufacture their part based on specifications and designs supplied to them by the vehicle manufacturer.

Your vehicle manufacturer selects components used in your vehicle based on a variety of factors.  These include PRICE, quality, deliverability, and many others.
In most cases, the manufacturer will not select the BEST product available. 
If all of the items that went into your vehicle were the best - your car
would cost 5-10 times as much as you paid for it! 
The manufacturers certainly make decisions, in most cases, to use an adequate product- that meets their demands for price and quality.  They may not use the cheapest component- because it would result in too many warranty returns.
However, there are thousands of recalls every year for components which the manufacturer has deemed defective. 
You can check them out for your vehicle here:http://www.alldata.com/recalls/
The vehicle manufacturers make mistakes too!
In the aftermarket, you can choose from a range of lesser-cost, lower-quality components OR higher price, higher-quality components. 
You have the choice! 
Just because it was specifed as OEM- it doesn't make it better!
All of the components we sell are EQUAL TO or BETTER THAN the OEM specification for the original component.
Remember, Firestone tires were OEM on Ford Explorer trucks .
Did that make them better?  Think about it!

How hot do my rotors get when braking?

~ Brake Rotor Temperature Calculator ~
Car Weight (lb): Rotor weight (lb - [all 4 rotors]):	Initial vehicle speed (mph): Slowdown speed (mph):
Average rotor temperature increase (F):

The default values listed above are typical for an average American 'sedan-type' vehicle.
Feel free to change the values, and see how this changes the outcome.

The table above calculates an "average" temperature rise for your rotors
under a single-stop event.
Peak rotor temperatures can be at least TWICE as high as what is calculated . 
Higher rates of deceleration will increase the peak rotor temperature more -
since the braking system has less time to dissipate the heat generated.
Under multiple decelerations, the temperatures move progressively higher -
because the rotors do not have a chance to cool to ambient temperatures.

What causes brake pad failure?
There is no single answer to this question - there are simply too many variables.
However, in general, pad failure is caused by excessive heat.  Brake pad compounds are designed to operate within a certain temperature range.  When the pad is overheated to a temperature above what the material was designed to handle- it will wear at an excessive rate, crumble, decompose, and the like. 
Tip: Our Temperature Indicating Paint Kit may be useful in determining the
correct brake pad compound(s) for your application: 
http://www.raceshopper.com/temperature_paint.shtml

What causes brake pad glazing?
Brake pad glazing is caused when the brake pad friction material is overheated.
This results in crystallized friction material on the pad surface and the brake disc.
Typical symptoms of glazed brake pads include: Poor stopping performance, vibration or brake judder, and cracks or fissures in the brake pad material.
Pad glazing is typically caused by operating the brake pads at a temperature above the specified temperature range of the friction material or not properly following the 'Bedding-in' instructions for the brake pads.  Always follow the manufacturers brake pad bedding-in instructions and use a brake pad that has a temperature range that is sufficient for its intended use.

What is better- Slotted or Drilled Rotors?
Again - this is a subjective question.  As they say- liars can figure- and figures can lie.  Proponents of both sides will espouse the benefits of each.
We prefer 'Slotted Rotors'  Why?
A few different reasons:
1) Many companies who produce aftermarket performance rotors may not use the best 'blanks' to start with.  They do this because it allows them to make the rotors at a lower cost and sell them to you for less than other competitors- or, this way, they can compete with the larger manufacturers.  Now, if you have a somewhat sub-standard rotor- and then you 'cross-drill' it - What do you think you're doing?  Well, you're compromising the integrity of the rotor by drilling completely through the surface- and then it heats up- and if it isn't a quality blank- made from quality steel and alloy- What do you think happens then?  Well, more likely than not- it will crack. 
Remember, we're not saying ALL 'Cross Drilled' rotors are bad. 
2) Cross-Drilling (in most instances) removes more braking surface area than slotting does. 
3) A brake rotor is designed to do one thing:  Convert kinetic (moving) energy to thermal energy (heat).  What handles more heat- A cast-iron kettle or a pizza pan with holes in it?
4) Can you think of any professional race teams who still use cross-drilled rotors?
Most importantly: "You get what you pay for!"
If you buy a $20 set of brake pads or a $30 rotor- and then you have to change them every 5,000 or 10,000 miles - Is that really a bargain?

Why all performance rotors are not created equally ...
Here's a few examples: